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Garrett Reynolds can do it all so he needs a bike that can adapt and hold up to anything. Here's what he had to say about the latest version of his signature Fiend frame.
"I’ve tried to find a good balance between being responsive for tech tricks and stable for riding bigger spots making it comfortable for whatever I’m into at the moment.” - Garrett Reynolds
BMX frame geometry can look daunting, but thanks to our handy guide below you will have it figured out in no time. Remember, we're all BMXers here so if you have any questions just ask.
Keep reading to find your perfect frame, or click below to watch the buyers guide video.
| Rider Height (in) | Rider Height (cm) | Top Tube Length |
|---|---|---|
| 5' | 152 | 20" |
| 5'3" | 160 | 20.5" |
| 5'6" | 167 | 20.75" |
| 5'9" | 175 | 21" |
| 6' | 182 | 21.25" |
| 6'6" | 200 | 21.5" |
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Head tube angle determines the angle of your forks. A steeper HT (i.e 75°and higher) will make the bike turn quicker than a mellower angle (i.e 74.5 and lower°). The more responsive the frame, the more twitchy it will feel, especially at high speed!
Seat tube angles don’t vary too much (around 71°) and affect the centre of gravity. The steeper the angle, the shorter your bike will feel. Some frames have a mellower seat tube angle (example 69˚) which makes for a longer frame without actually being longer and reduces how fast your frame turns.
The chain stay is essentially the length of the rear end of the bike. A shorter CS length will make the bike more responsive and a longer one more stable. As a rough guide a 13.5" long chain stay is about average.
Stand over height is essentially how high your frame is. A frame with a low standover height is more responsive and easier to 'throw around' whilst a high SO height is more stable; particularly useful when going fast.
